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Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...

Hello Ron
A quick note on the building of the Lead Sled. This was my first scratch built HO chassis, and decided to try building this one. The article from Riggen HO was used for the build. I discovered a couple things while building this chassis. One I can not bend brass well, it took a couple wasted pieces to get a straight piece for the guide tongue and axle motor support. And drilling the motor brace straight for both axle holes is not easy wasted a couple more pieces of brass, so I decided to slot the uprights and install bushings (old G-Plus motor bushings) in the slot to hold the axle,as a by product they can be set for what ever dia. tire I want to use. The brass rod used for the z bend in the rear for hanging the pans must be the same on both sides to get the pans to sit level and equal,
more wasted brass, fixed this by making two pieces one preside and sleeving them in the middle so I could adjust the fit and height of the pans. I also subbed stacks of brass on the pans for the lead weight. Do to an over site I did not have a flag so I made a pin type out of
PC board that I bolted to the chassis and turned down the bolt to be the guide pin, also make it adjustable for height. I also bolted the wipers on to the PC board, next time I will do a slip in style like used on later AFX pan cars. The 0-80 nuts and bolts and drilling the thin brass is a pain. I will also narrow the pans a little on the next one I build so the body does not pull the pans upward, some stiffer bodies do not
allow them to lay down as intended. The chassis was built with a dremel, a drill press and basic hand tools.
I still really enjoyed building this chassis and it runs and handles better then I would have believed possible. I would recommend to anyone thinking about building this or any brass chassis to DO IT. It is worth the time and effort. Time to start the next of many more builds.
I also want to thank you Ron for the great site and all the help and information.
Eric Ramsey
...